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Irene, the key-lady on the hotel's fourth floor, told me with an innocent smile that I could bring anything to my room 'except explosives'.

This seemed to be a joke until the next evening, when police, armed with sub-machine- guns, conducted a room-by-room search, demanding to see passports and asking whether anyone had guns or explosives.

In the hotel car park a black wreath has been nailed to a tree.

It marks the spot where two weeks ago a driver for one of the mafia gangs was shot dead.

In the old days the Vladivostok- Paris 'Express' took 12 days.